Colombo Andersson 38% Extra
March 14th, 2005:  Now that the 1.20 Cap is done, I have started on the CA38% Extra. 
Got a great deal and great service from Planes Plus on the kit and DA150.

 

 

 



History

 

Projects/Reviews

Carl Goldberg Falcon 56 MkII

Colombo Andersson 38% Extra


 
Hangar 9 33% Cap 232


Hangar 9 1.20 Cap 232 (Bob's)


Hangar 9 1.20 Cap 232 (Bill's)

 
Lanier 31.5% Staudacher S600


Sig Kadet Mk II


Sterling Ringmaster


Thunder Tiger Fun Tiger

 

Updated!!
Pics of Cool Stuff

 

Crash Pictures

 

Car Stuff

Updated!!
1989 Jaguar XJS


Updated!!

Random Thoughts
 

Links

Stuff for Sale

 

Contact
Bob


Bill

 

Year Built:

2005.. it's now 2011 and I am still not done :-)

Weight:

TBD

CG:

TBD

Engine:

DA150

Prop:

Mejzlik 32x10

Muffler:

TBD

Fuel:

Lawnboy 32:1 then Amsoil 100:1

Radio:

Futab 9ZAP WC2

Servos:

JR8611, Seiko PO-050 on Rudder

Battery

Probably Fromeco ReLions

Color Scheme:

Building Impressions:

So far, very good.  Not a kit for a first-time builder, IMHO.  The instructions are really for the 31-34% planes, and the 38% has a few extra parts.  Fortunately, like a puzzle, the extras only fit one place, and it's pretty obvious where most of them go.  If you aren't familiar with GS construction (motorboxes, truss-type fuse, aligning the fuse, etc. you could "glue yourself into a corner.." 
The ply is light and usually has some slight warping.  This means when you clamp it you need to pull it straight.  That's what the steel rulers are for in the below shots.

Flying Impressions:

 

Hmm - A big box
and a clean workbench -
Where do you think
this is headed?



 

 

First step is to join fuse sides and run square stock down the top and bottom edges



 



Next step is the motor box.  Lots of dry fitting here, the manual seems to be focused on the 34% plane, the 38% has a few extra braces that you have to figure out on your own.
 



Fortunately, every piece only fits one place.  If you have never studied the details on a large-scale plane it could get confusing fast...

 



More motor box...



 



Gotta keep everything square.. a flat workbench and a sale on clamps at Harbor Freight are key ingredients.



First dry fit of the fuse.  Encouraging - every thing is pretty darn square even just dry fit.
 



More fuse..



 

 

The fuse has lots of gussets, filets..
 
 


 
...and corner braces.  Takes patience to get the fit right.
 

 

Minimal spacer is required to get the DA150 correctly positioned.
 




The stock rudder tray and the piece of carbon fiber tha will replace it.  Will use a Seiko PS-050 instead of 3 8611's...

Before I got too far on the fuse I needed to figure out the can setup.  I'll use the MTW 110cc cans and a mounting system similar to the 33% Cap.  Things are tight, but not nearly as tight as the 33%, so no problemo..

 

Finished cradles for the cans..here's how they got there===>
 

 

Needed to cut a 3 and 5/32nd half-circle to match the can diameter..
 

 

No hole saw so I built a little jig for the bandsaw out of a c-clamp and a #8 Flathead..



This is the disc that is left after the cut, but you get the picture..
 

 

Line up the hole in the center and rotate the work...you are left with a nice cradle to hold the can..

 

 

Lots of clamps to glue the cradles in.. they sit on the gear plate...



 

 

...I guess an added benefit is they act as a gusset between the motorbox and gear plate.


 

 

Cans in their cradles.. extra space will be taken up by 1/8" silicone tubing..They can even splay out a bit to minimize bends in the headers..



Quick header mock-up, cut will be at the black line - looks like minimal pieces and brazing will be required.
  I had to get the large 90 degree L-bend from KS in Germany, nobody here stocks it..


 



Headers are done! 


Front view.  I wanted to keep the right header (on the left in the pic) away from the fuel inlet.  Some "factory" pipes are too close to the fuel inlet and throttle linkage for my taste.



Bottom view, missed a bit on the top hole, will have to fill and re-cut.  Sheeted the outside of the fuse rather than the inside like the instructions called for, will make for a cleaner exit for the exhaust. Rectangular holes under the back of the cans are hot air exits.